First (1st) fermentation

After pressing, the grape must is usually fermented in large steel tanks or oak barrels. Some winemakers then allow their wine to undergo the process of malolactic fermentation, whereby Oenococcus bacteria transform the malic acids, which are sometimes perceived as «cutting», into «gentler», more «harmonious» lactic acids, giving rise to aromatic buttery and brioche notes.

The result of this first alcoholic fermentation, during which the resulting CO2 could easily escape, is a still wine with about 10% alcohol, known as the base wine. Up to this point, the production of Champagne thus resembles the production process of most white wines. However, now the typical and often secretly guarded Champagne methods and procedures are applied, which create these sparkling bubbles in the bottle.

Second (2nd) Fermentation

At least one summer after the production of the base wine, the noble creation of the 'assemblage' is bottled by the winemaking families into Champagne bottles and provided with the so-called 'liqueur de tirage,' the filling dosage, a house-made mixture of a portion of this very assemblage, raw sugar, and yeast. Firmly sealed with a crown cap and stored horizontally at a temperature of about 10 to 12 degrees Celsius, the yeast then begins to convert this sugar into alcohol during this second fermentation.

The resulting carbon dioxide (CO2) cannot escape the bottle and remains dissolved in the liquid. When the pressurized gas is released – as we pop the corks – it returns to its gaseous state, forming bubbles, known as 'perlage'. All sparkling wines undergo various methods of this 'prise de mousse' (foaming), but only Champagne produces its 'fizz' directly in the bottle.

After approximately 6 to 8 weeks, this bottle fermentation is complete, the sugar is fully broken down, and the yeasts die off. The alcohol content is now increased by another 1 to 2% compared to the first fermentation. In the subsequent chemical process of 'autolysis', the dead yeast cells release aromas of bread, biscuit, and toast into the Champagne. This process typically lasts about 4 to 5 years, but has also been observed over periods exceeding 10 years.

For non-vintage Champagne, a minimum aging period of 15 months is prescribed, and for vintage Champagne, at least 3 years. Champagne resting on its dead yeasts remains fresh – even throughout many years of the aging period.

Cultivation, harvesting and pressing

Numerous and detailed regulations govern the cultivation, harvesting, and pressing of Champagne grape varieties. Clearing and replanting must be officially registered. Only after two years – or, in the language of winemakers, from the 'third leaf' – are grapes obtained that are permitted to bear the 'AOC' (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) 'Champagne' seal of quality. The rows of plants may have a maximum spacing of 1.50 meters, while the vines themselves must be no less than 90cm and no more than 1.50 meters apart.

The average and relatively high planting density of approximately 8,000 vines per hectare is based on qualitative considerations. The thus densified leaf surface optimizes photosynthesis, while the vines in the soil must compete for nutrients, which leads to fewer Champagne grapes per individual plant, but also to an increased quality of the grapes.

Strict rules also apply to pressing, or 'keltern' (grape pressing). Thus, only the just under 2,000 registered pressing stations ('pressoirs') in Champagne are permitted to press the grapes. And for these, strict quantity regulations apply. From 160 kg of grapes, only the first 82 liters of must may be pressed as the higher quality 'Cuvée', and the subsequent 20 liters as 'Taille'.

In case of the red and blue grape varieties, "Pinot Noir" and "Pinot Meunier", grapes are pressed immediately after harvesting and left resting on their skins for only a very short time (a few minutes), as otherwise the must would absorb the red colour pigments from the skins, which is of course undesirable for the production of white wines.

Assemblage / Wine Blending

The true art of Champagne production is the so-called 'Assemblage', or wine blending. Various base wines are combined to create a single wine. Champagne is never just a single wine. In the best Champagne houses, countless different base wines from a first fermentation are available for the Assemblage. Here, the winemaker plays with the diversity of nature: the location, the grape varieties, and the vintages, adding human knowledge and talent as the fourth dimension of the Assemblage.

The uniqueness and expressiveness of the Champagne terroir are reflected in the multifaceted personalities and endless variations of Champagne wines. The blending of wines from different grape varieties allows for the creation of subtle contrasts and complementary characteristics in this beverage. With experience from the vineyards, a trained sensory memory, and great creativity, the cellar master marries base wines with different aromatic and organoleptic properties. The overall masterpiece qualitatively surpasses the base wines and delights us with its balance, which nature could not produce without human intervention.

Typically a blend of different vintage wines, in particularly good wine years, Champagne is produced from a single grape vintage. For non-vintage Champagnes, approximately 70% base wines from the current year and 30% reserve wines from previous years are typically used. This allows producers to release a very similar Champagne each year, thus maintaining their 'house style'. Only Champagne made from base wines of a specific year may bear the title 'Vintage Champagne'.

Soil / Terroir

The subsoil of Champagne consists of limestone, chalk and marl. The Champagne chalk has formed from skeletons of marine microorganisms. It is also known as "belemnite chalk" because it contains molluscs of that name from the secondary age. This type of soil, dating from the cretaceous age, is found in the heart of the growing area between the "Montagne de Reims" and the "Côte des Blancs". The chalk is highly porous and is able to store 300 to 400 litres of water per cubic metre, so that even in extremely dry summers the water supply of the plants is guaranteed. It also produces the unmistakable mineral note of some Champagne wines.

Within this rather manageable region of Champagne, there are effective regional differences in the soil. The distinct and unmistakable 'terroir' fuels the passion of Champagne winemakers, who have for centuries practiced mastering the challenging conditions of their vineyards and climate, working with their unique characteristics and complexity to create wonderful, unique wines.

A viticultural terroir in Champagne is a region-specific concept whose main characteristics – climate, soil, subsoil, and relief – create the special conditions for a mosaic of micro-terroirs with unique properties, which thousands of Champagne winemakers optimally develop thanks to their expertise.

Blanc de Blancs

«A white from white grapes», Blanc de Blancs have been produced exclusively from Chardonnay grapes since 1980 and are not only rarer, but usually also somewhat more expensive. Famous growing areas for this grape variety are Cramant, Mesnil and Avize.

Young Blanc de Blancs champagnes are excellent for ageing and develop from a sometimes greenish colour and a floral bouquet into mature champagnes with a golden colour and a bouquet of notes of bread and biscuit.

Blanc de Noirs

'A white from black grapes', the Blanc de Noirs tends to be more robust and complex, yet as elegant as a Blanc de Blancs. Also known as 'BdN', it is made purely from the two red grape varieties Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier, or from a blend of the two. The other five grape varieties permitted in Champagne are white wine grapes.

The trick lies in the «vinification»: the grapes are pressed extremely gently, the juice is separated from the dark skins as quickly as possible, and thus remains light.

Cuvée

Literally translated, «cuvée» means something like «out of the tank» and, in the case of champagne, refers to a specific batch bottled separately or a specific blend from a harvest or vintage.

One meaning of this term is thus the measure of quality of the wine obtained from the very first, very gentle pressing of the grapes. The best champagnes are made entirely from cuvée. But cuvée champagne can also refer to the specific blend of wines (precisely from different «batches» of a harvest) that go into a champagne house's special recipe.

Only the Cuvée is considered high enough quality to be used for Champagne production. Should the harvest yield additional must (the Taille), this may only be distilled.

Disgorging / dégorgement

Before disgorgement, the bottles are stored upside down. During 'disgorgement', the yeast sediment formed during the second fermentation is removed from the bottle neck.

During mechanical disgorgement, the bottle neck is inverted and immersed in a cold bath at -27°C, which, due to this low temperature, molecularly binds the carbonic acid and prevents the wine from foaming out when the crown cap is removed. The resulting ice plug encloses the yeast residues, and as soon as the bottle is opened, the piece of ice is ejected due to the pressure, with minimal loss of wine and pressure.

For large bottle formats and certain Cuvées, disgorgement is still performed by hand, specifically 'à la volée'. The bottle is held neck down, then quickly inverted and opened, allowing the pressure to expel the residues without losing too much wine.

Dosage

The dosage, along with the Assemblage, is at the core of Champagne production artistry and plays either a minor or an extremely important role in the sensory development of the beverage. Before the bottle is sealed with a Champagne cork, it receives the 'liqueur d’expédition', also known as the shipping dosage. All yeasts were either consumed by bottle fermentation or expelled at the time of disgorgement; there is no chance of a third fermentation in the bottle.

This dosage liqueur usually consists of the same wine and cane sugar, dissolved in a ratio of 500 to 750 grams per liter. If the cellar master wishes to complete the wine's style with a final touch of aromas, the shipping dosage was prepared beforehand with reserve wines stored in wooden barrels, tanks, or even magnum bottles. In some houses, an 'Esprit de Cognac' is also occasionally used here.

If the producer wishes to preserve the original character of their wine, the shipping dosage is as neutral as possible. Some Champagnes are now labeled as non-dosé, zéro dosage, or brut nature (the official designation), meaning that no sugar has been added to the 'liqueur d’expédition'. The sugar content depends on the desired wine type and is designated as follows (per liter):

• doux over 50 g sugar
• demi-sec between 32 and 50 g sugar
• sec between 17 and 32 g sugar
• extra dry between 12 and 17 g sugar
• brut under 12 g sugar
• extra brut between 0 and 6 g sugar

If the residual sugar content is below 3 grams per liter and no sugar has been added to the wine, the designations "brut nature," "pas dosé," or "dosage zéro" may be used.

History of Champagne

There are many stories and myths about the origin of Champagne as we know and enjoy it today. It took the efforts of numerous individuals and a few happy coincidences for the development of this noble beverage. In the 17th century, people began bottling the then-still white wine to preserve its freshness, as the wine lost quality when transported in barrels. This early bottling caused the wine to unintentionally continue fermenting in the bottle, often leading to corks popping out or bottles bursting. However, if the bottle survived the fermentation, a tart, pleasantly sparkling beverage was obtained. The English, in particular, took a liking to this novel drink.

We owe today's champagne essentially to the following three people:

Christopher Merret (1614-1695) was an English physician and inventor. In 1662, he presented the paper 'some observations concerning the ordering of wines' to the Royal Society. In it, he described how the addition of sugar initiated a second fermentation in the wine, which imparted freshness and perlage to it. Thus, he can likely be credited with controlled bottle fermentation and be named the true inventor of sparkling wine.

According to legend, the Benedictine monk Pierre Pérignon (1638-1715), better known as Dom Pérignon, is often named as the inventor of the 'Méthode champenoise'. The Moët & Chandon winery was significantly involved in creating this legend, which is not surprising, as the Dom Pérignon Champagne label comes from that very house. However, according to current knowledge, the famous monk did not invent the process but significantly further developed it. Especially the Assemblage, the white pressing of red grapes, and various closure techniques can be attributed to him. The currently common bottle size of 0.75l is also thanks to him. He is said to have introduced this quantity – as the average daily ration of a pious man.

Also earning her merits for Champagne in the early 19th century was Madame Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin (1777-1866), the young widow of a wine merchant. She also lives on today as the Champagne brand 'Veuve Clicquot' (French: Widow Clicquot). The 'Grand Dame of Champagne', as she was often called, was the first woman to manage a Champagne house. She developed the process that removes yeast from the bottle through riddling and disgorgement of the Champagne. Thanks to her, we drink this clear and beautiful beverage today.

Bottle sizes

Champagne is offered in various bottle sizes. The standard size is the 0.75l bottle. Bottle size plays a crucial role in the aging and maturation process of Champagne. The same Cuvée generally tastes more harmonious from a magnum bottle than from a 1/1 bottle and also ages better afterwards. However, even larger formats no longer offer an advantage, as they were not necessarily fermented in the same bottle.

• 0.2l Quart
• 0.375l Demi
• 0.75l Standard
• 1.5l Magnum
• 3l Jeroboam or Double Magnum
• 4.5l Rehoboam
• 6l Methuselah or Imperial
• 9l Salmanazar or Salmanasar
• 12l Balthazar or Balthasar
• 15l Nebuchadnezzar
• 18l Melchior or Goliath
• 25l-26l Souverain or Sovereign
• 27l Primat
• 30l Melchisedech

The usual commercial sizes range from Demi to Double Magnum. The production of bottles with a capacity of 6 liters or more is very complex and costly, and therefore only available in very limited quantities.

Sabrage

"Sabrage," or saber-opening, a certainly impressive way to open a champagne bottle with a saber, most likely originated around the time of Emperor Napoleon I. He loved champagne and is said to have decapitated champagne bottles with a saber (French "sabre") with his cavalry officers after a victorious campaign against the Russian Empire in 1812.

In France, the "Confrérie du Sabre d'Or" (Brotherhood of the Golden Saber) – founded in Champagne in 1986 and boasting over 200,000 members – has made it its mission to cultivate and pass on the tradition of sabrage.

The whole thing also works with a champagne glass or a ballpoint pen instead of a saber!

Grand Cru / Premier Cru

In the AOC Champagne, vines are cultivated in 319 villages and communes to produce champagne. These are rated on a scale of 80 to 100, differing in soil quality, microclimate, etc. "Grand Crus" receive the highest rating of 100, while "Premier Crus" must achieve a rating between 90 and 99.

Thus, "Grand Cru" champagne is of higher quality than "Premier Cru" champagne. The grape variety is decisive for the designation as "Premier Cru" or "Grand Cru." Only Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes can achieve "Grand Cru" status. For a champagne to be designated as "Grand Cru" or "Premier Cru," all grapes must also originate from similarly declared communes. However, different Crus (with the correct status) can be blended, and it does not have to be 100% from grapes of a specific Cru to be declared as "Grand Cru" or "Premier Cru."

Champagne Corks & Crown Caps

The cork of a champagne bottle, like all corks, originally has an elongated cylindrical shape. The familiar mushroom shape with a conical base only develops later. The cork is strongly compressed when inserted into the bottle neck. Over time, the cork adapts to the bottle neck and loses its elasticity during storage. Only the lower part of the cork, which comes into contact with the champagne, retains its original elasticity for longer. Therefore, the lower part of the cork expands to its original diameter after opening the bottle, while the upper foot piece retains the diameter of the bottle neck due to its brittleness. However, the restoring force of this mushroom shape decreases the longer the cork has been in the bottle.

During the second fermentation phase (bottle fermentation), the champagne is first sealed with a crown cap (bidule), and only after disgorgement and the addition of the dosage is the champagne bottle sealed with the champagne cork.

Storage

Champagne should not be stored in the refrigerator. Champagne bottles should be stored horizontally: This keeps the natural cork moist and sealed (they lose their elasticity over the years), and on the other hand, the bottles are always under considerable pressure, which would only be further supported if stored upright. A constant temperature of approximately ten degrees Celsius and a humidity of 70 percent are optimal.

Champagne should not be stored for too long. Bottles delivered are already at their peak. Only vintage champagnes benefit from storage – in some cases, even for decades.

Maisons / Champagne Houses

Champagne wines owe their worldwide reputation to the talent and experience of the Champagne houses. Among the members of the Union des Maisons de Champagne UMC (umbrella organization of Champagne houses) are the most renowned houses (even if their name is sometimes larger than their production volume). Their wines are blended from grapes purchased from growers in selected Champagne Crus or plots, which contribute to the brand's style.

Traditional Method / Méthode Champenoise

The "Méthode Champenoise" (or "Méthode Traditionnelle") encompasses the 1st and 2nd fermentations. With a single, uninterrupted vinification of the still wine in barrels or vats, the desired pressure could never be precisely controlled.

After a maturation period chosen by the winemaker, ranging from a few months to several years, the resulting still wine is bottled. A portion of this wine is used in Champagne for the production of the liqueur de tirage and the dosage. A quantity of the same wine, along with a dose of sugar and yeast, is added to each bottle. These new yeasts then convert the added sugar into alcohol during the 2nd fermentation in the bottle, and the resulting CO2 is trapped in the bottle, which is responsible for the effervescence and bubbles of the champagne when the bottle is opened.

With the removal of residues ("degorgage") and the addition of the expedition dosage, the magic and allure of the traditional Champagne method are complete.

Vintage / non-vintage

For vintage champagne (non-vintage), usually about 70% base wines from the current year and 30% reserve wines from previous years are used. This enables the producers to bring a very similar champagne onto the market every year and thus to continue their «house style».

Then a chemical process called "autolysis" begins. The dead yeast cells release aromas of bread, biscuit, and toast into the champagne. This process usually takes about 4 to 5 years but has also been observed over periods of 10 years. Champagne resting on its dead yeasts remains fresh – even over many years of maturation.

A champagne with a vintage year (also called Vintage Champagne or "Millésime") is only produced in years when the harvest is of particularly high quality. The grapes used for this champagne all come from the same vintage. As a rule, vintage champagnes are only available in the best years.

Perlage

The pearl-shaped bubbles, called perlage, are an important quality indicator of champagne and give it a touch of magic. The smaller and finer the bubbles, the higher the quality and more flavorful the champagne. If a champagne has too strong a perlage, it has a negative effect. Too much foam forms on the surface, and the aromas of the champagne are lost. Conversely, if the foam formation is insufficient, the aromas cannot develop properly. Perlage, also known as foam formation, is a natural process in which yeast cultures convert the sugar of the grape into alcohol and carbonic acid during fermentation.

Premier Cru

The grapes of a "Premier Cru" must come from similarly classified sites. Only 44 villages belong to this category.

Rosé & Saignée

Rosé Champagne, a champagne with many facets. Having come into fashion in the 1990s, Rosé Champagne has now secured a firm place in Champagne's diverse offerings with its quality and taste. Most major brands offer Rosé Champagne, and many consider it the "scene champagne." There are 3 different production methods for Rosé Champagne: by adding red wine during the "assemblage," the "maceration method," and "Rosé de Pressée."

What we are all actually aware of is that the juice of blue berries is clear or colorless, not blue or red. The red coloring of a red wine occurs during the fermentation of the grape juice, through prolonged contact with the grape skins. The destemmed red berries are macerated for 24 to 72 hours, depending on the vintage, before pressing to obtain the desired color. During this process, the color pigments dissolve from the skins, and white grape juice becomes red wine.

This elaborate and expensive process must be precisely monitored and is known as maceration (from Latin macerare: 'to soften', 'to make tender', 'to leach out'). Particularly high-quality Rosé Champagnes are produced this way through skin contact. A small portion of the Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier grape skins remains in contact with the must during fermentation. Experts recognize Champagnes produced this way and referred to as "Rosé de Saignée" by their significantly stronger bouquet; they pair very well with dishes that typically call for a light red wine, such as a Burgundy. During the process, other components, such as phenols and tannins, are released from the berry skins and grape seeds, significantly influencing the sensory profile of the later base wines.

The simplest and often used method to produce Rosé Champagne is the blending of white and red Champagne base wines through an "assemblage." This slightly alters the Champagne's taste, typically making it a bit fruitier and fuller-bodied. Red wines from Champagne are only produced in very good vintages and are also offered in small quantities as still wine.

A third production method creates the "Rosé de Pressée," but it is rarely used today. This method dates back to Champagne production in the late 18th to early 19th centuries. For "Rosé de Pressée" Champagne, the grapes are only lightly pressed and then partially fermented before the must is separated. This results in a delicate pink color.

Due to its color, the flavor profile of Rosé Champagne is automatically associated with high fruitiness. However, these wines offer a wide range of flavors, depending on the various production methods and the diversity of options with grape varieties, terroirs, and the philosophies of the winemakers. Outstanding Champagnes with the flavor profile of a classic Cuvée, plus Zero Dosage, are the astonishing result. Particularly fruity Champagnes result from single-varietal "Rosé de Saignée," produced using the maceration method, with a high proportion of Pinot Noir, or from pure Pinot Noir.

Riddling / Remuage

Before Champagne is released for sale, the dead yeasts must be removed. For this, the horizontally lying bottle is tilted a little more upside down each day and "riddled" until, after almost a month, the deposits formed during effervescence have concentrated in the bottle neck, allowing this sediment (consisting of yeasts and "riddling aid") to be easily removed during the subsequent disgorgement.

Riddling is still partially carried out by hand today by so-called "remueurs" at a wooden riddling desk. A professional "riddler" can riddle up to 40,000 bottles per day. Marked with a chalk line on the bottle base, individual bottles are turned an eighth or a quarter to the left or right with a confident hand movement. The bottle is gradually moved from a horizontal position to an inverted one. This gradual turning, performed by Champagne riddlers for centuries, ensures that even the smallest residues collect in the sediment, so that the wine is completely clear in the end. Over a month and a half, a bottle is riddled by hand an average of 25 times.

Nowadays, however, the riddling process is mostly carried out by machine. This automated process riddles up to 500 bottles in metal cages, known as a "Gyropalette," 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. This way, the riddling process is shortened from 6 weeks to 1 week, without altering the quality of the Champagne.

Regions

Champagne is divided into 20 natural regions, each with fairly homogeneous terroirs. These are grouped into six major regions.

· Montagne de Reims

· Vallée de la Marne

· Côte des Blancs

· Côte des Bar

· Petit Morin and Grand Morin

· Côte de Champagne

Grape Varieties

Champagne is primarily made from three grape varieties:

  • Chardonnay
  • Pinot Meunier (Schwarzriesling) and
  • Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder).

Interestingly, both Pinots belong to the red grape varieties. With relatively simple techniques, white wines can also be produced from them (Blanc de Noirs).

Serving Champagne

For the aromas in Champagne to fully develop, it should not be too cold. Ideally, the temperature should be between 6 and 8 degrees Celsius.
An exception is vintage Champagne, which, due to its full body, can also be enjoyed slightly warmer (around 9 to 11 degrees Celsius).
In the glass, Champagne warms up quite quickly at normal room temperatures. Therefore, it is advisable not to fill the glasses too full and to keep the bottle in a Champagne cooler.

Saignée

Rosé de Saignée Champagne
A more elaborate and expensive process – maceration. Champagnes produced in this manner are also referred to as Rosé de Saignée. After pressing, the must is not immediately separated from the skins but remains in contact for several hours. This process must be very precisely monitored. The longer the must remains in contact with the skins, the more intense the color. During the process, other components, such as phenols and tannins, are released from the berry skins and grape seeds, significantly influencing the sensory profile of the later base wines.

Terroirs

A viticultural terroir is a region-specific concept, where collective knowledge of the interactions between identifiable physical and biological factors and the viticultural practices applied in that area is gained, giving the products of that region their uniqueness.

The three main characteristics of the Champagne terroir – climate, soil and subsoil, and topography – form the unique framework for a mosaic of micro-terroirs with distinctive properties, which the 15,000 Champagne winegrowers expertly bring to their full potential.

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